How to Chemically Exfoliant Skin for a Healthy, Radiant Complexion

Gentler than their physical counterparts, chemical exfoliants — AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs — are the resurfacing ingredients that will up your skincare game. But before you pick up your next product, it's probably a good idea to do a little research on which chemical exfoliant will most satisfy your skin type, its needs, and concerns. Because let's face it, the last thing any of us needs right now is for our skin to start flaring up due to a bad reaction to a new product. To help us out, we reached out to three top dermatologists to get the facts — straight.

Keep scrolling for everything you'll ever need to know about chemical exfoliants.

What Are the Most Common Types of Chemical Exfoliants?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are among the most popular. "Alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid," says Dr. Elyse Love, a board-certified New York City-based dermatologist. "Beta hydroxy acid is synonymous with salicylic acid."

There are also PHAs. "Examples include gluconolactone and gluconic acid," shares Dr. Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital.

What's the Difference Between AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs?

"Although AHAs and BHAs are both hydroxy acids, they differ in their composition and mechanism of action," explains Dr. Tess Mauricio, a San Diego-based dermatologist. "Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble substances that act as a chemical instead of a physical exfoliant like a scrub. It allows exfoliation of the skin and improved penetration of products. Beta hydroxy acids are lipid soluble and penetrate the skin through the oil glands. BHA tends to be preferred in skin conditions like acne where oil production is part of the disease process."

PHAs, on the other hand, have a larger chemical structure than AHAs, making them ideal for those with sensitive skin. "They even have humectant properties, helping to hydrate the skin," says Dr. Zeichner.

Is It a Good Idea to Mix Chemical Exfoliants?

It depends. Mixing acids can make certain treatments more effective, but you should avoid doing this on your own.

"Since each exfoliant interacts with the skin in slightly different ways and provides slightly different benefits, exfoliants can be combined to provide multiple benefits with one treatment and/or more intense benefits with one treatment," Dr. Love says.

But if you want to go this route, it's best to leave it to the professionals to do the work for you. "Using too high a concentration of a single acid may be too irritating," Dr. Zeichner says. Dr. Love adds that there are many products on the market that offer safe combination formulas for at-home use — so your best bet is to stick with those.

Which Acids Are Best for Sensitive Skin?

If your skin is prone to sensitivity, Dr. Zeichner recommends sticking with PHAs since they are more gentle on the skin and offer hydrating benefits. Dr. Mauricio suggests that depending on your skin needs, using low concentrations of AHAs or BHAs can also suffice. "Salicylic acid at lower concentration is preferred for sensitive skin," she says. "A lower concentration glycolic acid exfoliant can also be well tolerated by those with sensitive skin. Lactic acid is effective in treating dry skin."

How Often Should I Be Applying Chemical Exfoliants to My Skin?

"Stronger agents should be used two to four times a month, while daily options may be incorporated into the skincare routine on a daily to weekly basis," says Dr. Love. However, for those with darker skin tones, be mindful of any developing irritation and halt use if you notice your skin seems to be flaring up. Irritation from these acids can lead to hyperpigmentation.

How Long Will It Take to See Results?

Let's just say if you're looking for an instant or overnight treatment, this is your best bet. "Glycolic acid tends to deliver instant exfoliation which is one of the reasons it is very popular," Dr. Mauricio shares. "The exfoliation that happens can result in instantly brighter, fresher, and smoother skin."

However, not all acids are built the same. "PHAs are slower to work because they have a more gentle effect on the skin," says Dr. Zeichner, adding that in the end, they will all give you the same results.

Which Chemical Exfoliants Do Dermatologists Recommend?

There are a plethora of products on the market that offer chemical exfoliation benefits. But no matter which one you choose, make sure to consult with your dermatologist prior to use to ensure that it will work for your unique skin type. Here are a few of the MDs' go-tos:

No7 Laboratories Resurfacing Skin Paste

"For those who are looking for an affordable over-the-counter product with effective chemical exfoliants, I like to recommend the No7 Laboratories Resurfacing Skin Paste," Dr. Mauricio shares. "This product contains Derma-Peel Complex with an AHA & PHA blend with skin soothing licorice and powerful glycolic acid complex for those who want a luxurious spa-like treatment at home."

To shop: $25; amazon.com

Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA +BHA Pore-Tight Toner

"The new watermelon toner combines BHAs and PHAs to remove excess oil and dead cells from the skin to minimize the appearance of pores and maintain skin hydration," Dr. Zeichner says.

To shop: $34; sephora.com

Innbeauty Project Foam Around Clarifying Daily Cleanser

"It combines glycolic and lactic acids with gluconolactone in a formula that brightens without overly drying the skin," Dr. Zeichner shares.

To shop: $22; credobeauty.com

Obagi Clinical Blue Brilliance Triple Acid Peel

"I am partial to in-office peels, but I have been using the Obagi Clinical Blue Brilliance Triple Acid Peel, which contains salicylic, glycolic, and lactic acid, during social distancing and have noticed a visual improvement in skin smoothness," says Dr. Love.

To shop: $197; obagi.com

Vivant Skin Care Daily Repair Pads

"I also use Vivant Skincare Daily Repair Pads, which contain salicylic, lactic, and mandelic acid a few times a week during the warmer months to control oil production," Dr. Love adds.

To shop: $78; vivantskincare.com