The History of Gucci and Its Enduring Fashion Legacy

There are few fashion houses as instantly recognizable as Gucci. From Alessandro Michele's fluid, maximalist designs to the scandalously sexy campaigns from Tom Ford's tenure at the brand, there hasn't been a time in recent memory where Gucci wasn't the pinnacle of excessive glamour—but it hasn't always been that way. Long before big names such as Harry Styles and Dakota Johnson were red carpet superfans, the luxury Italian brand had a far more humble upbringing — some of which was highlighted (albeit fictionalized, much to the Gucci family and Ford's disproval) in the 2021 film House of Gucci, starring Lady Gaga, Adam Driver, Al Pacino, and Jared Leto. 

If you've been curious about the history of Gucci, we're here to catch you up to speed. Ahead, a comprehensive breakdown of the brand's origins, plus lesser-known facts about the iconic fashion house.

1921: Gucci Opens Its First Store

Guccio Gucci founded the famous fashion house in Florence, Italy, in 1921. As reported by Rebag, before starting his namesake label, Guccio worked as a porter at the Savoy Hotel in London. Inspired by ritzy hotel guests, he returned home to work for a luggage company, Franzi, and took up leather craftsmanship before launching his own business. At launch, Gucci primarily sold leather goods and focused on travel items but later branched out into equestrian equipment as word of the brand reached the ears—and wallets—of British aristocrats.

1930s-1940s: Gucci Expands with Unconventional Materials

Eventually, Guccio's sons—Aldo, Vasco, and Rodolfo—began working for the company, and its reputation continued to grow. However, according to Women's Wear Daily, it hit a snag in 1935. There was a League of Nations embargo against Italy, and with leather in short supply, the brand was forced to use different materials. A specially woven canapa, or hemp, was created, and Gucci's now-famous interlocking diamond symbol was printed on top.

1951: Gucci Creates Its First Bag

As WWD noted, once leather production began picking up following the end of World War II, Aldo created the brand's first pigskin bag. The material became the fashion house's signature. Gucci's first bamboo-handled bag—in the shape of a saddle—is also thought to have been created around the same time. By 1951, Gucci had embraced its famous green-red-green stripe detail.

The '50s were also a great time for the expansion of Gucci's stores. While there were already locations in Florence and Rome, Rodolfo opened another in Milan in 1951 before expanding to the U.S. in 1953. Shortly before Guccio's death that same year, a Gucci store opened at The Savoy Plaza Hotel in New York City as a tribute to his time as a porter. The founder passed away just 15 days later at the age of 71.

1950s-1960s: Gucci Draws Inspiration From Celebrities

In the years following Guccio's death, the brand continued to see success thanks to his sons. Celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor were photographed carrying bamboo-handled bags, and the Horsebit loafer—with its iconic double ring and bar—was released in 1953.

In 1961, after Jacqueline Kennedy was spotted carrying a Gucci bag, the fashion house renamed it "The Jackie." Around the same time, it created a logo (initially used to fasten bags) that is still used today: the famous double-G.

Grace Kelly influenced Gucci's designs, as well. According to AnOther Magazine, when she purchased a bamboo-handled bag in 1966, Rodolfo gifted her a floral scarf made especially for her. The pattern was a commissioned illustration by famed artist Vittorio Accornero and later named the "Flora" print.

1970s-1980s: Gucci Undergoes Changes

More Gucci stores popped up in the 1970s, selling clothing in Tokyo, Hong Kong, and an additional location in New York City. In 1975, Gucci entered the beauty space with their debut fragrance, Gucci No. 1.

In 1981, Gucci held its first ready-to-wear fashion show. The collection focused heavily on the "Flora" pattern and took place at the Sala Bianca, Palazzo Pitti in Florence, Italy.

For the next few decades, Gucci underwent several major changes and some drama. Guccio's grandchildren were working at the company by the early '80s, and the family was feuding about who would be in control. Eventually, Rodolfo's son, Maurizio, took over, pushing his cousins and Uncle Aldo out of the company, as reported by Time.

Per The New York Times, in 1989, the holdings company Investcorp acquired nearly half of Gucci. Bergdorf Goodman's President, Dawn Mello, and its head of accessories, Richard Lambertson, were then brought in to give the brand a much-needed boost.

1994-2004: Gucci Appoints Tom Ford

The real change for the brand occurred in 1990 when the wildly talented Ford entered the picture. Initially, the young designer oversaw Gucci's ready-to-wear collection but became the fashion house's Creative Director in 1994. During that time, Maurizio sold the rest of his shares to Investcorp. He was murdered a few years later on March 27, 1995, as reported by People.

To this day, Ford is considered to be the designer who truly revitalized Gucci, incorporating hypersexual designs and campaign imagery. His Fall 1995 collection and sleek, minimalist designs were a massive commercial success, and celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Lopez, and Madonna were all photographed wearing his pieces on the red carpet.

In 1999, the iconic "Jackie" bag was relaunched with a few updates, quickly becoming the new must-have item that year.

Late '90s-Early '00s: Gucci Is Acquired by Kering

In the late '90s, LVMH slowly started purchasing company shares despite pushback from Gucci's then-CEO Domenico De Sole. However, before the company took over, investor François Pinault of Pinault Printemps Redoute (PPR) strategically became the major stakeholder. PPR would later be renamed Kering in 2013, and Gucci remains a part of the conglomerate today.

In 2004, Ford and De Sole left the company over contract disputes with PPR (via The Wall Street Journal), but not before Ford brought Fendi's former handbag designer, Frida Giannini, into the mix, hoping to bolster Gucci's accessories department. John Ray took over menswear after Ford's departure, while Alessandra Facchinetti handled womenswear.

2004-2014: Gucci Names Frida Gianni Creative Director

The years following Ford's departure showed significant change for the company. As noted by Business of Fashion, in 2006, Giannini was named Creative Director, and her relaunch of the "Flora" pattern—instead of focusing on the double-G logo—proved massively successful.

David Lynch directed Gucci's first-ever TV campaign for the Gucci by Gucci scent in 2008, per WWD. Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme, Giannini's first men's scent, launched with campaign star James Franco that same year, as reported by Fashionista. The now-iconic Flora by Gucci fragrance was launched in 2009.

2014-2022: Gucci Announces Alessandro Michele as Creative Director

In late 2014, WWD reported the abrupt announcement that Giannini and CEO Patrizio Di Marco would both be leaving the company. Michele, who had already devoted 12 years to the brand, was then announced as the new Creative Director, reported The New York Times. The appointment of the relatively unknown accessories designer came as a shock to many within the industry.

In his first move as Creative Director, Michele helped design an entirely new menswear collection in less than a week, according to the NYT. His first womenswear collection debuted a month later on the Milan runway and was an instant success. Marco Bizzarri was also brought in as the new president and CEO of Gucci following Di Marco's exit.

2022-Present: Gucci Heads in a New Direction

In the years after his appointment, Michele turned the luxury house into the printed, sequined, oversized-glasses-loving vision it's known for today. In 2019, Gucci relaunched its makeup line, Gucci Beauty, and introduced its first unisex fragrance, Mémoire d'Une Odeur ($77). Starting with its 2022 collections, the company has been entirely fur-free, according to Forbes. It has also promised to reduce its environmental impact, including greenhouse gas emissions, by 2025.

In November 2022, Michele announced that he would be stepping away from the brand after his tenure as creative director. 

"There are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have," he said in a statement shared by Kering. "Today, an extraordinary journey ends for me, lasting more than twenty years, within a company to which I have tirelessly dedicated all my love and creative passion."

Italian fashion designer Sabato De Sarno took over as Gucci's creative director in January 2023, per The Guardian.