Everything You Need to Know About Layered Haircuts

Have you ever found yourself scrolling on TikTok or Instagram only to wonder how every creator seems to have a voluminous, full-bodied head of hair while you have seemingly lifeless strands? While genetics, solid haircare, and a styling routine certainly play a role in how healthy and voluminous hair looks, layers can make a pretty big difference, too. In fact, according to celebrity hairstylist Suzette Boozer, layers are responsible for creating that overall coveted look. In that sense, she says it’s not about the products and tools you use; the cut you begin with determines how full your hair can look. 

Haircut layers are just as they sound: different lengths of hair layered on top of each other. Whether you opt for short layers or long layers, hair colorist and stylist Jeremy Tardo says that layers are designed to add depth and movement to a hairstyle. “Layers can change the look and feel of hair by increasing volume, reducing weight, and enhancing natural curls or waves,” he explains.

Another way to look at the cutting technique? “Layers create shape in a haircut,” says celebrity hairstylist Nikki Providence. While it may seem counterintuitive, she points out that by reducing weight, layers enhance the appearance of volume. 

Benefits of Layers

Although layers can feel like a major haircut decision, in reality, it’s a cut that will ultimately make your hair look and feel its best. The benefits include: 

• Remove excess weight
• Enhance movement
• Showcase texture
• Create dimension
• Provide shape

“Layers work well for various hair types with different approaches,” says celebrity hairstylist Iggy Rosales. “For fine hair, light, long layers add volume; thick hair benefits from internal layers to reduce bulk; curly hair can embrace layers for enhanced bounce; [and] straight hair can gain texture.”

The way layers will benefit you, specifically, depends on your hair type, face shape, and overall appearance goal. At the end of the day, though, Providence says that the biggest benefits of layers are that they “can make your hair feel lighter, have tons more movement, be easier to style, and create shape where you want it.” 

Not convinced? Let’s get into specifics. “Ultimately, layers create shape and movement to hair that wasn’t previously there,” says Ulta Beauty design team elite stylist Justin Toves-Vincilione. “For instance, if someone has a one-length haircut, they have a lot of length and weight. This makes it hard to wear a variety of styles. Adding layers can give life and style to a haircut. Whether you want to frame the face, show off the cheekbones, create balance, or build weight, there’s a layering technique that can suit and enhance anyone’s hair type.”

Different Types of Layers

Layers can be tailored to every hair type and texture but, according to Boozer, they work best when there’s a lot of density at play. “If your hair is straight and you have layers, it takes off a lot of weight, and also it gives great definition, different levels in lengths, shape, and style,” she explains. “If your hair is wavy, [layers] complement texture and break up uniform wave patterns; and if your hair is curly, [layers] create volume in a variety of shapes (round, oval, squared, rectangular, triangular, and more).” 

Of course, that’s just the tip of the iceberg. “It’s crucial to understand your hair texture and what it will do if cut shorter, and what shapes you love on your face,” Providence says. As such, below, find specific guidance on how layers can benefit a variety of hair types. 

Layers on Fine, Thin Hair

“On fine, thin hair, layering should only be done in areas where density can be compromised,” Toves-Vincilione says. “This is usually at the fringe and on the crown. Avoid layering the perimeter and the interior to avoid losing too much length and density.”

That said, if you want to really rev up the layers, you have two options: opt for a few long layers or go all out with a shag. “Thin hair looks great with a heavily layered shag because this type of hair lays close to the head and can look really graceful if cut well,” Providence says.

Layers on Fine, Dense Hair

If you have fine hair but a lot of it, Providence says layers can enhance movement and body. “Fine but dense hair can take a lot more layering,” she reveals. “I like using internal layers to create movement within the haircut, without necessarily cutting into the top part—this haircut can appear to be all one length but the interior layering can make a more natural line and silhouette.”

Layers on Thick Hair

When you have thick hair, the layering options are virtually endless. “Thick hair is a good candidate for most layers,” Toves-Vincilione says. “Long layers, butterfly layers, and really any round layered haircut is ideal.” When working with thick hair, though, he says to be mindful of the length of your layers. “The goal is to not go too short with the layers (as layers add volume) but create movement that blends and shapes the hair,” he reveals.

Layers on Curly Hair

While you may not notice layers on curly hair the same way you would on, say, straight blown-out strands, they serve a purpose. “Curly hair without layers usually shapes an A-line form—especially when long, the volume is on the end where you start your guideline,” Boozer says. With layers, though, you can achieve just about any shape with curls. “Curly layers are really popular because you can achieve some really creative and fun shapes with the three-dimensionality of curls,” Providence says. 

The trick to achieving the layered shape of your dreams is to have a clear consultation with your stylist beforehand. Since layers can take significantly longer to grow out on curls, Providence says to outline your boundaries and ensure that they know how to work with your hair type so that they are well aware of how your curls will respond to the snips. “I think it’s vital to be aware of where in the curl the cut is, and what type of cut you’re making on each curl (blunt or tapered),” she adds. “It’s often best to cut this type of hair dry so you can watch the shape take form, but everyone has their own techniques so you just want to make sure your stylist is someone you trust.”

Layers on Straight Hair

Ultra-straight hair can be layered, however, they often require more styling to make them look cohesive. “If layers are cut into stick straight hair, you will see every single cut—this can work, but it’s a strong look and you just want to be aware of what you’re getting yourself into,” Providence says. “This needs to be cut with skill so there aren’t any unintended chops.

Layers on Coily Hair

Considering coily hair is an even tighter version of curly hair, you must book with a stylist who has experience working with your hair type. “Coily hair takes the longest to grow, so go easy on this hair,” Providence reiterates. “It also has the most three dimensionality so the shape will really show. Layers will create lots of shape, but it’s rare to find coily hair without any layers at all because that shape winds up being a triangle.”

Factors to Consider Before Getting Layers

The biggest thing you should consider before getting layers (beyond your hair type, that is), is how much time and effort you’re willing to put into styling your hair. Remember, layers work most effortlessly on dense hair types with slight texture. With this in mind, Providence reminds us that styling straight layered hair can require more effort to maintain.

That said, curly hair needs to be cut with care in order to achieve your most suitable result. So when opting for layers, make sure to consider how you like to style your curls. “Once you decide on the haircut technique, you can choose to have the hair layered while dry or while wet,” says Toves-Vincilione. “Getting layers on curly hair while dry is best for anyone who only wears their hair curly. If you wear your hair curly but also like to straighten it, cutting it wet with high tension is best.”

Beyond that, all of the stylists we talked to emphasized the importance of researching stylists before going through with your imagined cut. “The most important thing to keep in mind when getting layers is that everyone’s hair is different, and what suits you best may not be your [top] choice,” Toves-Vincilione says. “Also, the most available or convenient stylist is not the way to go! Take your time researching and consulting because a bad layered cut is not easy to fix.”

With this in mind, Tardo suggests booking a consultation and bringing inspo pics for your stylist to peruse. “This will help your hairstylist to see what you may have difficulty communicating otherwise,” he says, noting to “be open to your hairstylist’s suggestions and expertise as they can help you choose the right layers for your hair type and face shape.”

How to Determine Which Layers Are Best for You

As mentioned above, the best layers for you will depend on your hair type, face, shape, and commitment to styling and maintenance. If you’re not sure what kind of layers will be most suitable, scroll through your socials. 

“Look through tons and tons of photos of people with similar textures,” Providence says. “Think about your favorite features, and consider where the layers will frame or hide your face—if you love your cheekbones, a layer right at the bottom of your cheekbone can create contour. Layers can draw attention to your eyes or your lips, can help your hair move away from your face, or move into your face giving you a more narrow frame. If you have a high forehead, layers around the front hairline can shape it at the edges.”

Once you narrow down your inspiration and overall goal, communicate it to your stylist during a consultation. “Ask questions like ‘Do you have any photos of haircuts you’ve done on hair similar to mine? How can I layer my hair without losing my length? Which layered haircuts would allow me to [insert inspo here]’.”

Maintenance and Styling Tips

Remember: Layers require maintenance. “At-home maintenance for a layered cut is crucial,” says Toves-Vincilione. “You need to make sure your haircare products and styling tools are up to date and suitable for maintaining layers. Most of the time, volumizing shampoo and conditioner can be the perfect boost to a layered haircut.” 

Knowing how to style your layers is key for enjoying the cut. “Some hair types can air dry beautifully with a layered cut, but most need a strong styling routine to maintain a consistent high-quality look,” admits Toves-Vincilione. Otherwise, you may only love the look of your hair the day you leave the salon, only to feel discouraged every time you wash your hair thereafter.

According to Toves-Vincilione, the first step is to get used to using a round brush with a blow dryer. “This is the best way to maintain the style the same way your hairstylist does in the salon,” he says. (Hate having to use two hands to style your hair? Make it easy on yourself with a round brush dryer, like the Dyson Limited Edition Airwrap Multi Styler in Ceramic Pop with the Round Volumizing Brush Attachment ($499) or Drybar The Half Shot Small Round Blow Dryer Brush ($155).

Meanwhile, if you feel more adept with a curling iron, that can work, too. “An easy way to hack the salon blowout is to use a 1.5” to  2” curling iron on smooth hair,” Toves-Vincilione says. (May we suggest the T3 SinglePass Curl 1.5” Ceramic Long Barrel Curling and Wave Iron, $170?) “This recreates the look at home and can seem easier to some.”

From there, you can spritz on some flexible hairspray (we love the IGK Please Hold Flexible Finishing Hairspray, $32) or further set your volume with velcro rollers (like the Kitsch Ceramic Thermal Hair Rollers, $10). “In conjunction with a perfect blowout, velcro rollers help to reinforce and enhance the shape of each section, creating a bigger and longer lasting blowout,” says Toves-Vincilione. “Use Velcro rollers after styling each section until the entire head of hair is rolled. Let cool—the longer, the better, and you will see twice the volume and bounce than a standard blowout.”

If you like to style your hair at night, blow it out, then wrap your strands into a TikTok-beloved overnight blowout. Some of the best tools to do so include the Overnight Blowout Velvet Rods, $44, Kitsch Heatless Curling Set, $15, and The Sleepy Tie, $29. Come morning, your hair will look professionally blown out.

As beneficial as setting your blowout and using finishing products can be for layers, sometimes it requires prep steps to nail the look. That said, if you have fine hair, straight hair, or hair that simply falls flat, Rosales says to do yourself a favor and start your styling routine with texturizing mousses and sprays to define and separate layers while offering added hold. A few of our favorite products for the job include Color Wow Xtra Large Bombshell Volumizer ($26), Drybar Triple Sec 3-in-1 Texturizing Finishing Spray ($29), and R+Co Rodeo Star Thickening Style Foam ($36).

“If you like volume on top, an old school trick I learned from my mom is to hold your head upside down while you dry your roots, using some mousse or root lifter first to give it some hold,” Providence reveals. “When the roots are dry, but the ends are still damp, flip your head over and round brush the lengths into the shape you like. This helps you get volume but gives you time to smooth out the rest of the hair.”

The Takeaway

While layers can feel like a big step in the hair department, Boozer reminds us that they’re present in most haircuts, including shags, pixie cuts, butterfly cuts, mullets, wolf cuts, jellyfish cuts, flips, and so on. “Most styles have layers besides a blunt cut or asymmetric cuts,” she concludes.

The reason layers are so prominent today is due to the versatility they offer, Rosales adds. Still, at the end of the day, he reminds us that the layers we choose are subjective. “Choosing the right type [of layers] depends on individual preferences and hair characteristics,” he says. “Regular maintenance and suitable styling tools contribute to their longevity and appeal.”