5 Beauty Founders on How They Reclaimed Red Lipstick

The classic shade hasn't always been for all — until now.

Photo:

Stocksy

The legend of red lipstick has been passed down to beauty lovers as a symbol of power and defiance. “Good trouble,” if you will, for women looking to make a statement. Centuries ago, royalty would wear the shade to establish their rank. Then, during the 20th-century suffragette movement, women fought for their rights while swiping on Elizabeth Arden’s iconic red in protest. Throughout history, red lipstick has helped empower women to do amazing things — for the most part. What oftentimes gets overlooked is that this hasn’t always been the case for every woman, especially women of color. 

Stereotypes of the lower class and hypersexualization plagued BIPOC women who reached for the same shade of red that their white counterparts wielded for power. But it wasn’t until the beauty industry became more inclusive — including more women of color starting their own brands — that the conversation began to shift.

Below, five beauty founders share what red lipstick means to them now and how they’ve reclaimed the shade for themselves and for others. 

Pat McGrath, Celebrity Makeup Artist and founder of Pat McGrath Labs

Red Lips

Courtesy, Design by Amanda Lauro


On How She’s Viewed Red Lipstick: Growing up, red lipstick was a captivating embodiment of glamour. Its presence was undeniable, painting a vivid statement of allure and defiance. I was inspired by Sade’s red lips and Marilyn Monroe’s red lipstick. A red lip for me has always been the most magical articulation in makeup. There is a certain confidence that says “I’m here, and I know what I want” — that’s the person who’s wearing red lipstick. 


What Red Lipstick Means to Her Now: In general, the way that I’ve always perceived a red lip is its ability to define each person’s individuality and freedom of expression; that’s what makes it so special. One person’s bold statement red is another person’s everyday comfort. It tells the story of who you are. I was also consumed with its transformative potential. Its capacity to imbue the wearer with a certain audaciousness, a potent confidence, was magnetic to me.


How Red Lipstick Shows Up in Her Collection: The intention with Pat McGrath Labs was to encapsulate this empowerment [and] to infuse each shade with that same spirit of audacity and self-expression. I sought to reinvent the concept of red lipstick in the realm of artistry and individuality. Red lipstick is timeless, it’s the ultimate statement that symbolizes self-invention. There is a level of sophistication and sensuality that unveils an element of authority. Because of that, I wanted to introduce a collection of unconventional shades, textures, and formulas that will make anyone feel unapologetic for owning their power. This kaleidoscope of vibrant reds influenced the spectrum of reds in my collection today. From the cool undertones in Elson to the timeless allure of Forbidden Love, and the vibrant energy of Obsessed. 


I hope they feel inspired to express themselves freely, embrace their own unique beauty, and paint the world in their own vibrant shade of red. 

Gabriela Hernandez, Founder and CEO Bésame Cosmetics Inc.

Red Lips

Courtesy, Design by Amanda Lauro

On How She’s Viewed Red Lipstick: It was the epitome of femininity. I had short hair as a child because my hair was very curly and my parents did not want to take so much time to style it. So I was mistaken for a boy a lot. Seeing my aunts and other women using cosmetics and getting dressed up was like seeing princesses. I desperately wanted to use lipstick so I would feel pretty.  

What Red Lipstick Means to Her Now: It means feeling confident and an instant mood lifter. I feel more in control when I wear red lipstick and it has the power to cheer me up. It is a color that has subconscious connections to fertility and life; the color of blood and rosy cheeks, signaling good health. In the right situations, it can definitely make someone feel more powerful and in charge. 

How Red Lipstick Shows Up in Her Collection: We started the company on the color red. Besame red is the first item we ever produced. It was a color that had so much history and so many nuances of color that were not on the market anymore, that it was worthwhile to bring back classics that worked well in the past for so many women.

I hope [our red lipstick] becomes [consumer’s] go-to red. The one they pick is like an old friend that you trust to always have your back. Colors that are always in style, always classic, and do not let you down in the most important times in your life.

Deepica Mutyala, Founder and CEO of Live Tinted

Red Lips

Courtesy, Design by Amanda Lauro

On How She’s Viewed Red Lipstick: I see a celebration of my Indian culture. I have vivid memories from my childhood of seeing women I loved and respected — like my mom — wearing it. I associate red lipstick with Indian weddings and other celebratory events. 

I understood that it was seen as a symbol of empowerment for some women, but I didn't feel like it was for me, or women who looked like me. I couldn't find a shade that felt like the right fit for my skin tone.

What Red Lipstick Means to Her Now: Now, red lipstick reminds me of our Huestick in Origin, which is so meaningful to me as Live Tinted's very first — and award-winning— product, as a reminder of where we've come from. 

How Red Lipstick Shows Up in Her Collection: Whether our Live Tinted community is using Huestick in Origin to color correct, as an eye cheek and lip multistick, or wearing our new Huelip in bold shades like Spicy and Powerful, I hope that they are filled with powerful confidence that comes with putting on a bold red lip, being proud of your culture, owning who you are, and most importantly, I hope they feel seen.

Emily Rudman, Founder and CEO of Emilie Heathe

Red Lips

Courtesy, Design by Amanda Lauro

On How She’s Viewed Red Lipstick: My perception of wearing red lipstick growing up was that red lipstick was something for adults, [a look that] was a little bit more bold and dramatic.

Historically in [non-white] cultures across the world — especially Asian culture — red lipstick has also been seen as something for concubines, prostitutes, or women of lower classes. I think historically in America the same has been true. It does feel like, in modern times, women have taken this back and made it less about it being sexual and more about it being empowering. I’ve personally never had an experience where I felt as if I was being judged or criticized for wearing red lipstick. 

What Red Lipstick Means to Her Now:

For me, nail polish and lipstick have always been items that could be used as bold accessories with beauty. Lipstick especially can really transform not only the way you look but also the way you feel. I could be wearing no makeup at all and just hot pink, red, or dark purple lipstick and suddenly feel like an entirely different person. It also is something that can really elevate your look without having to do much else.

How Red Lipstick Shows Up in Her Collection: 

Color is such an important part of our brand. Red being a primary color is super important when it comes to our artistic expression. Because red is such an important color in history, I’ve always seen it as a really bold color used for expression. And if used in the right way, and the right shade and tone like the Lip Atelier in 212, it can go with everything so it’s also very universally flattering. Red lipstick, to me, means bold, daring, and powerful, carefree, self-confident. 

Aleena, Naseeha, and Aleezeh Khan, Founders and CEO of CTZN Cosmetics 

Red Lips

Courtesy, Design by Amanda Lauro

On How They’ve Viewed Red Lipstick: Unfortunately, red lipstick was never presented to us as “empowering” when we were younger. At the time, we were not as aware of the roots behind the stigma [and] never saw women in our family sport a red lip, so it was not as normalized as an option for us. 

My sisters and I believe in the importance of seeing people who look like you adopt certain behaviors or styles in order to believe it is possible for you. This is why it’s critical to note that if we didn’t see adult family members wear red lipstick, we wouldn’t know that it is acceptable for us. Beyond family, I remember observing that in Indian Bollywood films, red lipstick was also usually worn by the character who was known to be more promiscuous. We seldomly saw South Asians symbolizing empowerment through a red lip. — Naseeha Khan

What Red Lipstick Means to Them Now: Now, red lipstick simply feels like a choice to be bold; a choice to step into another part of my personality, without shame, without discomfort. I never used to wear red lipstick before we launched Code Red, because I never found the right shade of red that I felt truly flattered me. I love that we have deeper, blue-based reds such as Root that make me feel confident for an evening look. — Aleezeh Khan

How Red Lipstick Shows Up in Their Collection: We have reclaimed red lipstick by reimagining the shade “red.” Oftentimes, makeup enthusiasts shy away from this trend because it has been introduced to us as a cherry red shade. Brands have also coined this bright red as a “universal red,” despite the fact that it does not suit all complexions, undertones, and even personalities. We have curated six beautiful shades, from a fiery orange-based red to a deep plum red, ensuring that our collection reflects every shade of you.

We have also linked our red lipstick to a philanthropic call to action; [we’re] not just destigmatizing a red lip but actually associating a positive cause to the product. Inspired by the color red, we have linked Code Red to combatting the period poverty pandemic,  a cause meant to empower women deeper than the empowerment felt wearing red lipstick. We donate 8% of each Code Red purchase to NGOs on the ground providing women in underserved communities with free menstruation kits and health education seminars. As a globally inclusive brand, we have committed to focusing on different regions around the world every year. This year, we are proud to partner with Pad Mad in Kenya; last year, we partnered with Post for Change and Her Ground in India and Pakistan. — Aleena Khan 

More from

The Classics Issue

Annabelle Dexter-Jones
Annabelle Dexter-Jones Is Finding Her Niche
The Classics Issue: 501s at 150: A History of Levi's Greatest Hit
501s at 150: Looking Back at a Denim Icon
The Classics Issue: Fancy Flip-Flops Are Summer’s It Shoe
Fancy Flip-Flops Are Summer’s It Shoe
If You Buy One New Thing This Season, Make It a Classic Black Belt
If You Buy One New Thing This Season, Make It a Classic Black Belt
The Classics Issue: @willdernesstyler Is Giving Vintage Coach a New Life on TikTok
Meet the TikToker Giving New Life to Vintage Coach Bags
Sai De Silva
How I Get Dressed: Sai de Silva
The Classics Issue: Brandon Blackwood Is Redefining “Classic” Handbags For The Culture
Brandon Blackwood Is Redefining “Classic” Handbags For The Culture
Red Lips
5 Beauty Founders on How They Reclaimed Red Lipstick
The Classics Issue: The Anatomy of an Investment Piece: St. John
The Anatomy of an Investment Piece: St. John Tweed Jacket
Related Articles