If there's one set of brands that are worth keeping an eye on, it's those that showcase their collections at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Over the past few years, the shows have left everyone in the fashion world talking, and for Fall 2023, the Danish capital is shaking things up once again, disrupting the industry and redefining Fashion Week.
Even if you didn't pay much attention to Copenhagen Fashion Week, chances are you saw some of the highlights on social media. There was that viral TikTok from (di)vision where a tablecloth transformed into a dress, some model-draping at A.Roege Hove that vaguely resembled Bella Hadid's Coperni spectacle, and pregnant models walking the runway at Sak Potts. However, that's not even half of what went down, and there are a handful of moments you might have missed that you'll definitely want to know about.
Ahead, we're breaking down what else was noteworthy, both on the runway and between the shows. From balaclava-filled street style to sustainable choices, here's everything to know about Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall 2023.
Aeron designed a minimalist’s dream wardrobe.
Copenhagen’s most glamorous crowd gathered outside the first show of the season — Austrian-born Aeron — bundled with soft eggshell coats, chunky pink knits, and balaclava of all colors, providing a stark contrast against the rainy winter backdrop. Inside, most could cozy up around “the oracle” — an airy spiral installation that set the tone for Aeron’s collection. There were sharp, tailored cuts, long plush dresses, and draped coats all produced with a zero-waste approach. The hues were earthy, mixing soft cream and midnight blue with orange, and in a way, the collection vibrated effortless sophistication that minimalists will adore.
Remain went with its signature tailoring.
If there’s one word to define the Scandinavian fashion aesthetic in winter, it would be tailoring. Remain understood that well, and some of the most prominent silhouettes on its runway included double-breasted overcoats and sculpted three-piece-suiting. Each look was completed with signature silver jewelry from renowned Georg Jensen to deliver a pronounced Danish-girl fit. It was glaring that the brand’s choice of color palette was thoughtfully composed of shades of beige, gray, and pink, which influencers were already on top of outside the venue with their Moon Boots and fairy-floss tweed coats.
The Garment wants you to dress like winter.
Nothing defines a Danish winter more than frozen grass and a gray blanket of sky — which ended up being the inspiration behind The Garment's Fall 2023 collection. Models walked past silver spheres wearing layers of gray, whether that meant midi and maxi lengths, thin and thick materials, or long and shrunken shapes. There were also more subtle details, such as the hand-crochet “frozen” flowers, which accentuated blazers and dresses, topped off with touches of lavender and eggnog. Overall, the collection oozed impeccable coziness, which was needed as pouring rain forced the crowd to curl up inside cabs while off to the next show.
Lovechild 1979 made a statement with deep brown.
Set in the artful Frederiksberg hall, Lovechild 1979's Fall 2023 collection showed off a new creative direction led by Mia Kappelgaard. An homage to Danish mid-century but also Lovechild’s signature aesthetic, the show included graphic lines, wooden structures, and masculine-feminine silhouettes. A deep brown colorway was one of the standout features of the collection, with straight leather-like skirts and curve-hugging dresses appearing in the specific shade. Along with hints of mesh, soft rosewood, and mint, it was surprising to find that each garment was made of deadstock fabric — even the architectural, oversized handbags that completed the looks.
Stine Goya’s nordic arctic world.
Walking into Stine Goya’s venue meant you were slowly entering an arctic ice cave surrounded by crystallizing water in tubes. As an ode to the snow and icy winter, the show kicked off with a series of metallics, melted snowflake prints, and the brand’s revisited signature checkerboard. Maxi and midi dresses were subtly floating as models walked down the runway while statement coats accentuated the waist. Some of the collection also included pink-hued Apres Ski looks, which resonated with the front row, whether that meant influencers decked out in mint bodysuits or Vikings actress Alicia Agneson, who wore a Stine Goya flower dress.
MKDT showcased sleek silhouettes.
To the beat of a war-inspired melody, tailored wool and sleek silhouettes marched down Mark Kenly Domino Tan studio's runway. The hues were calming, with a soft shade of beige that darkened as the collection progressed. The intention was to bring a sharp focus to the impeccable tailoring, eye-catching shapes, and straight cuts. By introducing contemporary silhouettes, MKTD wanted us to muse over someone sophisticated and polished, who embraces cashmere, steamed shirts, and bolero jackets.
Holzweiler brought the ocean to shore.
The label's show was one that gathered a bigger crowd. Outside, photographers were going wild trying to capture famous Iranian triplets, Golnaz, Tanaz, and Elnaz Hakkak, as well as Dutch influencer Amaka Hamelijnck, all of whom were curled up in intricate puffers. Inside, Ragnarok actor Hermann Tommeraass posed against the bleached reef backdrop — which hinted at what was to come down the runway. Think: loose knits, fishnets, and purses with a floating trail of algae. Honoring the nordic ocean life was at the core of this collection, which reflected onto foamy pastel puffers and slim cuts. Models moved around the runway with wet hair, glistening skin, and nacre jewelry, as if to lure you to dive into the clothes and explore the ocean.
Rotate's ode to the '80s.
When a star-packed lineup — one that includes fashion's favorite influencers and a Real Housewife! — walks on the runway to the beat of Kiss, you know you’re witnessing something good. Set in a concert venue that usually welcomes rock bands, Rotate took over Copenhagen Fashion Week with a bang that echoed the best of the '80s. Shiny sequins, glistening leopard print, and studded leathers were at the forefront, featured on bold, body-hugging dresses and frilly two-pieces. One couldn’t help but notice the denim guêpières that dramatized flowery fabric, but of course, the real stars of the show were the ones wearing the clothes, with a noteworthy walk from Actress Lisa Rinna who rocked the runway with a denim one-piece and mohawk. Now how’s that for an 80s throwback?
Ganni’s vibrant finale.
Signing off Copenhagen Fashion Week was Ganni, which offered a vibrant ode to nature. From two-piece denim and glittering cherry trenches to velour dresses resembling the softness of spring grass, there was something bold at every turn. Each look was marked with the brand's new butterfly logo, an intentional move that could be spotted on the buttons of tailored jackets and jeweled embellishments. As the show entered its finale, lemon confetti exploded on the runway, a wink to the sun to perhaps making its comeback to Copenhagen.