While there's nothing wrong with acne (breakouts can happen to anyone at any stage of life, after all), it's comforting to know that you have options should you want to treat it or keep it at bay. But when it comes to navigating how to get rid of acne, there's a lot to consider. And that's where the experts come in.
Below, we turned to four trusted dermatologists to get a complete breakdown of how to treat blemishes and find out the best products and treatments. The road to clearer skin starts now.
meet the expert
- Jocelyn Gandelman, MD, New York City-based board-certified dermatologist at the Schweiger Dermatology Group.
- Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology.
- Hadley King, MD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist.
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital.
What Causes Acne
Acne is caused by a number of different things. According to Joshua Zeichner, MD, acne can be catalyzed by high levels of oil production, bacteria, clogged pores, and inflammation. But he also notes that factors such as genetics, hormones, diet, and stress can also lead to breakouts. These are triggers you should be aware of.
At-Home Acne Remedies
Before diving into the products and known acne-fighting ingredients you can use, there are some at-home remedies you can try to calm a pimple. The first is more of a habitual change. Dr. Zeichner suggests finding ways to reduce stress. He explains that the hormones that help our bodies deal with stress also tend to activate oil glands. So, keeping stress levels low — whether it be through yoga, meditation, or exercise — can help prevent acne.
Next is looking at your diet. He recommends avoiding food that contains high sugar levels and dairy. He also says that whey protein and vitamin B12 supplements have been linked to worsening of acne.
In terms of at-home topical treatments, there are a couple of things you can reach for. Zeichner says that honey can be used as a spot treatment as it has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Aspirin, which is made of aminosalicylic acid, may have anti-inflammatory benefits as well. He says creating a paste to put on pimples can reduce inflammation and redness. Then there's tea tree oil, which has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. However, he cautions that it may be irritating and suggests doing a patch test.
In-Office Acne Treatments
If your at-home topical treatments aren't cutting it, then it might be time to consider going to a dermatologist. In-office treatments are stronger alternatives to fighting those pesky breakouts.
You could be prescribed topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxides, and antibiotics. For example, Dr. Zeichner says that one of the most popular prescription topical retinoids, Altreno, delivers the proven benefits of tretinoin, a Vitamin A derivative, with deeper penetration and minimizes any potential irritation.
If topical treatments aren't strong enough to clear up your skin, then you may be prescribed oral medications. Jocelyn Gandelman, MD, says that antibiotics and hormonal therapies, such as birth control and spironolactone, are the most common ones dermatologists will recommend. In severe cases, Dr. Gandelman says that isotretinoin, also known as Accutane, is highly effective but requires careful monitoring for all of its harsh side effects.
You can also go to a dermatologist for chemical peels. Dr. Zeichner says that a salicylic peel is the most commonly used one to treat acne. "As a beta-hydroxy acid, salicylic acid helps remove excess oil and dead cells from the surface of the skin to keep the pores clear and to treat and prevent breakouts," he says.
Next are laser treatments. Marisa Garshick, MD, says that Aviclear is a laser treatment that targets the oil glands and can help mild to severe acne. If you're looking to treat post-acne marks and scarring, Garshick says that there are plenty of lasers that can also treat them. Before making any decisions on treatment, be sure to ask your dermatologist to see which option is best for you.
Acne-Treating Products and Ingredients to Look For
First, reach for products with the right ingredients. Dr. Garshick lists benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, retinoids, and sulfur as tried-and-true ones to turn to if you're breaking out. "Benzoyl peroxide and sulfur help to reduce acne-fighting bacteria, while salicylic acid is especially good to help get rid of dead skin cell build-up, unclog the pores, and reduce excess oil," she says. "Retinoids are a great option for someone dealing with acne as they help to prevent and treat breakouts by regulating skin cell turnover to prevent clogged pores."
She says retinoids are available as a prescription or without a prescription, mentioning adapalene, which is available over the counter. Other products she likes include Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid and Skinceuticals Blemish and Age Defense, which each contain salicylic acid to help with oil and breakouts.
"I recommend those with acne-prone skin look for products that are labeled as 'oil-free' and 'non-comedogenic,'" says Gandelman. "Also, if you have very oily skin, you may not need a daily moisturizer, but if your skin gets dry after starting acne treatments, this would be a reason to start one."
She also suggests medicated hydrocolloid acne patches. "[They] can be nice for covering and disguising a lesion and preventing the temptation to pick," she says. "I recommend never popping acne; it doesn't help and may cause scarring."
The Ideal Acne-Treating Routine
According to Hadley King, MD, you'll want to balance acne-fighting ingredients with ones that support the skin barrier and soothe any irritation. Routines are personalized to your specific skin concerns, but she says you'll want to include at least some of the following:
- A gentle cleanser
- A retinoid cream
- A spot treatment with benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, or salicylic acid
- Moisturizer
- Sunscreen (in the morning)
She also says exfoliating once or twice a week with salicylic acid and doing a weekly sulfur mask can be beneficial. Because you're dealing with a lot of strong actives, you'll want to do a patch test before fully incorporating it into your routine. You'll also want to know the correct order of layering these ingredients.
Gandelman says that retinoids can be deactivated when mixed with ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and sunlight. So, she says it's best to use retinoids at night and benzoyl peroxide during the day. If you haven't used these ingredients before, she recommends starting out twice a week and increasing it gradually as your skin gets used to it.