The Best Skincare Routine for Acne, According to Dermatologists

Step One: Cleanse

"Washing your face twice per day can be used to remove any oil, dirt, and makeup — but it's important to remember that acne is not a result of 'dirty' skin, and over-washing can damage the skin barrier and aggravate acne," says Dr. Beleznay.

A gentle face cleanser will get the job done without stripping the skin of its healthy oils. However, if you have more severe inflammatory acne, Dr. Hartman recommends looking for cleansers with benzoyl peroxide if your skin can tolerate it. "Products containing benzoyl peroxide may help reduce swelling and get rid of bacteria within the skin," he says. "These can also remove excess sebum."

We're fans of the CeraVe Acne Foaming Face Wash Cream Cleanser that's formulated with benzoyl peroxide, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides to target acne while still being gentle enough not to strip the skin of essential moisture.

CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser

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Step Two: Exfoliate

Both Dr. Hartman and Dr. Beleznay are fans of exfoliating the skin using ingredients such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs).

Dr. Hartman explains that BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are best for targeting non-inflammatory types of acne, like blackheads and whiteheads. "Salicylic acid is often marketed for acne in general, but it usually works best on non-inflammatory acne," he says. "It naturally exfoliates the skin, removing dead skin cells that can lead to blackheads and whiteheads."

"AHAs tend to be milder, and not only do they help with acne, but they also treat hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles," adds Dr. Hartman. "Hyperpigmentation comes from the inflammation and acne itself. If you're not treating the acne effectively, the longer you let it sit, the more it's going to lead to hyperpigmentation, which will be more difficult to treat."

You can find both BHAs and AHAs in a range of skincare products including toners, serums, and cleansers. Cleansers like Glytone's Mild Cream Cleanser, a lathering cleanser that's formulated with 3.5% glycolic acid and non-irritating surfactants, help cut down your daily skincare routine by combining two steps into one.

Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

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Step Three: Use a Retinoid Cream

Retinoids are the gold standard of skincare because they address common skin concerns like aging, texture, and acne.

"Retinoids are a mainstay of treatment for all types of acne, but do the most for non-inflammatory acne by increasing cell turnover," says Dr. Harman. However, they're great for combatting inflammatory papules and pustules, too, as long as you're using the right formula.

"I commonly recommend a retinoid (or retinol), with the strength of that based on a combination of the severity of the acne and what your skin can tolerate," says Dr. Beleznay. "Long-term consistent use of retinoids has been shown to help with acne, as well as stimulating collagen and improving fine lines, skin texture, and tone."

Over-the-counter options include retinol and adapalene (up to 1%), while prescription options include tretinoin, tazarotene, and isotretinoin — aka Accutane. Dr. Hartman explains that prescription retinoids, like Accutane, are typically used to help cystic acne. "It can treat and prevent nodules by decreasing oil gland size within the pores."

Whatever form of retinol you use, however, just don't use a retinoid as a spot treatment as it won't be as effective as it should be. "Some people think retinoids are to be used as a spot treatment and that's a misconception we have to dispel all the time," Dr. Hartman says. "Although they can be beneficial that way, we know they are even more beneficial as a means of stopping the buildup of dead skin cells, oil, and debris in the hair follicles, so pores don't get clogged and contribute to the development of inflammation and acne."

Dr. Hartman suggests Skin Better's AlphaRet Overnight Cream. "It helps with aging, discoloration, and acne, and it's great for patients who are retinoid naive. Or those with sensitive skin who have difficulty finding a retinoid they can tolerate," he says.

Skin Better AlphaRet Overnight Cream 30ml

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Step Four: Moisturize

If the retinoid you use doesn't double as a hydrating cream, it's best to include a moisturizer in your routine. "Keeping your skin hydrated is important. This can help prevent your skin from getting too dry, and many of the treatments we use for acne can dry out the skin, Dr. Beleznay explains. "When your skin is overly dry and your skin barrier is compromised, your skin can overproduce oil to compensate, potentially leading to clogged pores, blackheads, and further exacerbate acne."

We recommend this moisturizer from La Roche-Posay as it's oil-free and non-comedogenic, meaning it won't clog pores.

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Mat Oil-Free Mattifying Moisturizer

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Step Five: Apply Sunscreen

Sunscreen should never be skipped over, but it's especially important to protect your skin from UVA/UVB rays when you're using active ingredients for acne, which can sensitize the skin.

Dr. Hartman recommends a mineral sunscreen since chemical formulas can cause contact dermatosis in some people. "For people with acne, we tend to not so much see irritation from certain ingredients, but the vehicle it's in," he says. "Oil-based or heavier formulas can cause comedones, so then the sunscreen can make your acne worse." Look for a mineral SPF that's emollient, rather than heavy creams.

Supergoop!'s Mineral Sheerscreen also protects against blue light, in addition to UVA/UVB rays.

Supergoop! Mineral Sheerscreen

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